The Hutsul Provody amidst the war
Celebration of Provody – commemoration of the departed has taken on a new dimension in Carpathians. A glimpse of how the war affected this Ukrainian highland region. For The Guardian.
Provody is an Orthodox feast of the dead celebrated a week after Easter, and it is also called the “Easter of those who have passed away”. According to the old tradition, after the liturgy at which food is blessed, the faithful go to cemeteries to feast at the graves of their passed loved ones. Unlike the autumn festival of the dead, Provody is a joyful celebration of life and death. With the ongoing war in Ukraine, it takes on a special significance.
The Ukrainian Carpathians are one of the last places where the custom of eating a meal in a cemetery is still cultivated. For centuries, the region inhabited by native Hutsuls successfully resisted foreign influences — Polish, Austro-Hungarian and finally Soviet. Geographic isolation and the uneventful mountain life allowed local residents to forge authentic ties, a strong identity and an unique culture that boldly confronts the taboo of death. Despite ubiquitous globalization, the Hutsuls live in a tight-knit community and uphold old traditions, which helps them much in the face of wartime tragedies.
During the spring Provody of 2023 and 2024, we observe the locals and their customs. Visiting them twice over the course of the year, we learn how they experience mourning and how the traditional life in the mountains prepares them to confront death. We talk to the families of the fallen and to the soldiers. We ask both local authorities and young people, who are responsible for the renaissance of the Provody and other indigenous customs , about the meaning and future of the Hutsul spirit.